PiggyBack's mount

Made from wood, with a axis that allows 180º of freedom to change the camera's field. It is holded to the telescope's rings for more stability. Untill now, it has prove to be very rigid, and works well with 200mm lens inclusive. A improvement could be the construction of two more axis, but that can produce some field's rotation due misaligment. Another point in the favor of this mount is the alture of the camera, preventing that the telescope body generates any vigneting in the pictures.

Cable release with locking mechanism

A totally indispensable accesory for long exposures. Besides it is practically imposible that you could be with the finger in the shutter buttom, a cable release is efective way to minimice vibrations, companied with other techniques like raise the mirror, the hut trick, use the self timer, etc.

Chrono-Led

A little device that i made... A chronometer with the adition of a low intensity red led, feeded by two AA bateries, that plays also the rol of a adjustable angle base. A switch turn the led on and off. It has proved to be a very good way to chronometice my astropics, specially becouse it stands anywhere and doesn't need a lantern for viewing the screen. It's big buttoms and adjustable angle base gives a lot of freedom and is very comfortable to use.

Lens Shades

Another important accesory. It help mainly to prevent from parasit lights mainly, but also it could prevent some dew in the lenses. As you can see in the pic, they are collapsable, and there are available in many sizes (i have 50mm, 55mm and 77mm diameter ones).

Tripods

They are not too much necesary, but are really usefull for star trails shots.

They could be very simple. The only thing that matters is that the camera should be rigid in its place.

T-Ring for Canon FD

There not very much to say. T-rings are the accesory that are atached to a camera's mount and for the other side to the T-adapters, Tele-extenders, etc.

Haartmann mask

The Haartmann mask is and easy to made accesorie that improves the focus quality a lot. The basic idea is to have two or three circular holes in un surface that covers the objetive. A variation is that instead of circular holes you have to make triangular ones, that generates difraction patterns when the focus is very close to the ideal one. Anyway, when you see throught the filter and you are not in the proper focus you'll see two (or three) stars instead of one. The closer you are from the focus, the closer the stars will appear to be. You can make some improvements to this method using some magnificators. Also you can use this mask for the star trails focus method.

Cleaning kit

A basic kit that allows to clean the lens without the risk of damaging them.

Topcon's T-adapter and Tele-extender

Specially made accesories for my Topcon camera. You cannot find any t-ring for this camera in the market, so it is the only choise you have.

Zenith Semi Fish Eye - Auxiliar lens

It is an auxiliar lens, it means, it isa atached on a common lens, as if it is a filter. Gives 0.42x (a lot greater field size), but also introduces a lot of aberrations and distortions. Works well for star trails, but fails with guided pics. Another feature is that due it's greater aperture the principal lens needs to be closed one or two steps to compensate a manual expositometer's value. The owner's manual recomends it's use with focal ratios larger than f/11.

Flash

Useless for guided astrophotographies, but it is a very good accesory in star trail's pics, when illuminating some objects for an artistic touch. You can play with color filters and generate funny pictures!

Manual Expositometer

Just for daylight photos. Measures the emited or the reflected light, giving a lot of control over the desired effect, very usefull with transparency films.

I owe other accesories, like the auto winding motor for the Topcon RE300, macro lens, and a lot more, but none of them i use right now, so i'll not describe them here.

.